This is Part Five of JO-BERT, Step By Step Guide To Setting Up Your Own Reef Aquarium.

Albert,
    Test results on May 17th at 9 p.m. are as follows:   pH-  8.30   ORP-328
Nitrite- Bare Trace.
                                              Jola
Jola,
Those are the kind of numbers we are looking for. You did it!
I like seeing test result of that kind.
We are sure ready for some action. Don't put anything in the tank yet
though <G>
What do we now have left ?
                                           Albert
Albert,
For one thing ,  I'm kind of surprised by the Phosphate reading,  I didn't
expect it to be 0.2!
The tank is experiencing a -slight- brown diatom bloom.
                                           Jola
Jola,
Do you have X-Silicate that you can use? If not I will need to send you
some.  You may need X-Phosphate too.  Let me know today early please.
                                         Albert
Albert,
May 18, 5:30 AM , the ORP was 330.
All -critters- left are:    Leather Coral,  Green Stripe Mushrooms,  2
different kinds of polyps,  plenty of Xmas Tree Worms,   all the small
hermit crabs,   snails,   Devil's Hand Coral, &    Acordia Mushrooms.
                                         Jola
Jola,
330 mv at 5:30 AM. Pretty good indeed for the tank.
As the weeks go by and as animals are added this will fluctuate and go
down and then back up (which is normal).
Can you also post the salinity, nitrate and phosphate when you get a chance.
Thank you,
                                         Albert
Albert,
Sure,  let me know when you want me to run a whole series of tests.
As for the ones you are specifically asking about ,they are as follows;
ORP-333, Phosphate-0.2,  Nitrate- 05, pH-8.32, Nitrite-  Bare Trace, 
Salinity- 1.024 and 1/12.
I have X Silicate and the phosphate remover by SeaChem, it's about
6 months old and has never been opened.
                                         Jola
Jola,
The phosphate remover is fine to use.  Let me know if you need more.
We have now reached a stage of balance in the aquarium where all water
quality parameters are slowly getting to the levels where we want them
to be.
The tank has cycled and a dual type of filter has now established itself
in the rock.
We have a true biological filter which breaks down ammonia to nitrite
and then nitrite to nitrate. We also have colonies of bacteria which
recycle nutrients, in this case nitrate. These bacteria take longer to
develop than the others and IME come to full presence only a few months
after the tank has been set up.
These latter bacteria will are housed on and mainly in the rock and will
break the nitrates down, recycling them and keeping your nitrate levels
at near zero ppm, if not at zero ppm.
What we have to realize is that each time we add an animal, the
pollution load increased and that the filters have to play catch-up with
this level.
The slower, therefore, one introduces animals the less the impact of
this added pollution will be on the filters and on the animals already
in the tank.
To increase our nutrient recycling we are will add so-called live sand,
this week, to the tank.
The live sand contains bacteria and will also contain animals that dig
and burrow and keep the sand stirred so we do not end up with dead spots
and possibly the occurrence of anaerobic activity and the production of
hydrogen sulfide.
The latter would be very detrimental and can cause massive die-offs
among the fish and result in all corals closing.
It is important, therefore, that we use high quality live sand and add
the necessary digging and burrowing animals.
The sand will be real fine. It will be of aragonite make-up (minimizing
the amount of silicate so we do not end up with a tank full of diatomic
brown algae).
Mind you no sand will be totally free of silicates so, for a while, we
may see some diatoms. We can easily deal with this situation by removing
the silicates by means of X-Silicate or by letting them disappear
naturally.
You already have snail (Astrea) in the tank. We will be adding small
hermit crabs as well to yet improve algae consumption.
Detrivores and omnivores will be added as well.
Corals will be introduced first. Then, when the tank is really stable
chemistry wise we will slowly add fishes.
Only reef - compatible fishes will be used thus eliminating many fish you
may like (e.g. all Angels and Butterflies).
Let's watch the water conditions. Please post me a note with the
following test results:
pH ORP KH NO3 PO4 DO NH4 NO2
Thank you,
                                          Albert   
Albert,
Here are all the test results on Jo-Bert .  May 21,  1995  at 7am:
Dissolved Oxygen- 8 mg/lt, pH-  8.27, Nitrate- 5ppm, SG-   -1.025, 
Nitrite-  0, KH- 15 degrees, Ammo-  0, Ca-  421, ORP-  350,
Phosphorus- 0.05
                                         Jola
Jola,
Good to see that the nitrates are down to zero, and that there is no ammonia.
Except for the high KH level, I see nothing wrong at this stage.  The 
nitrate reading may go up a little before the rock filtration kicks in.
Nitrate will really go down after we put in the live sand and the bacterial
bed gets going.
Great. You did that in a record time BTW. Normally the cycle last much
longer.
The tank is now ready for at least one more nice piece of coral.
Maybe a big Elegance!
                                       Albert
Albert, 
May 23, 6am, pH - 8.31 and ORP - 360.
                                       Jola
Jola,
Thanks, these reading look really good.
The rock formation in the tank, although certainly steep, is fine.
Remember the one you saw at Fishey Business which looked just about the
same as the one in your tank and you will understand that it is all
right to have it that way.
The piece of acrylic used to "dam off" the sand is just fine. The 4 inch
height should allow us to put enough sand in front of it to form a nice
thick layer.
It will hold the sand in place and prevent it from going over and ending
up underneath the rock.
The piece is curved now which is fine. The pressure from the sand will
hold it in place.
The way it looks now you have about 4 to 5 inches all across the front
to put live sand, then the acrylic separation plate and then the rock
starts.
                                   Albert
Albert,
One thing folks should know about the acrylic used for the separator
with the sand.
I thought that I had cut mine a little short,  so I used Super Glue to
glue a small extention onto the main piece.
I did this by cutting a piece of acrylic about 4" long by 5" tall,
and gluing the most of the piece onto one end of the real long one.  Sit
something heavy onto this for a couple of hours,  and it holds really
well.
                                   Jola
Jola
The circulation inside the tank (current) is just fine. Thanks to all
the power heads you have a real strong current.
This is good as all the water in the tank is moving around continuously.
When corals are added it may become necessary to reposition a power head
if it turns out that too much flow is hitting a coral directly.
This can be done when a coral or more corals are added. At this time all
is fine.
A small tuft of hair algae appears on the rock right close to the output
of the RIO 2100.
The location is consistent with the belief that algae will grow in areas
where the nutrients are higher and always present.
The flow from the output of of power head would certainly result in such
conditions.
It kind of proves once more that algae will grow in areas where the flow
is real high and thus the nutrient supply constant, even if PO4 is low.
The minimal amounts of nutrients will get algae to grow in such areas.
Grazers are one way to keep that in check and using PO4 removing
compounds another.
The use of both gives IME the best results.
This indicates though that PO4 must have risen and that X-Phosphate
needs to be added to the tank to lower PO4.
The small piece of Leather Coral near the top of the tank needs to be
moved as it is receiving to high a water flow.
The white areas on the rock are areas where the calcareous algae have
died off.
You need to increase the calcium level in the tank somewhat.
The flow is good but the phosphate in the water may be inhibiting the
growth of the calcareous algae.
As I said in a previous message to you need to run a couple of batches
of X-PO4 for a few days each to reduce PO4 to near zero.
If you have any questions relating to this let me know.
The best way to use the X-PO4 in the plastic bag is as follows:
Open and discard the outer plastic bag. Cut a corner off the bag
containing the X-PO4 (or the X-Silicate or X-Nitrate for that matter)
and then pour the X-product in a micron bag or piece of panty hose.
Rinse with hot water (does not contain chlorine) and then place in the
tank or vat in an area where lots of water can flow through it.
Rinse bag from time to time (say once a week) to remove built-up
detritus and slime from fish and invertebrates.
Test for PO4 from time to time to ensure they are still going down or
remain real low (< 0.03 ppm preferably).
Replace when necessary.
The foam filters placed on the intakes of the power heads are fine but do
accumulate dirt and need cleaning.
At some point soon you should really not need them anymore.
The sand is arriving (finally) today the foam may have to be taken out
when the sand is put in.
Whether or not this is necessary depends on the amount of pollution
generated when the sand is added.
If little is produced I suggest you take one out and about a week later
the other one.
In addition to the sand some diggers and dwellers will be placed in the
tank.
They will ensure the top of the sand stays clean on one hand, and that
the sand is stirred on the other.
Before adding the sand take a good look at the tank and clean out
whatever needs to be cleaned from the bottom (if anything).
Turtle grass does not spread all that fast. In your case, the rock you
have which has the Turtle Grass on it, needs to be trimmed back a little.
                                      Albert
Albert,
Well,  I'm certainly glad that you are actually pleased with the
results,
so far!
Just goes to show you , that this sort of thing can be done with
electronic messages!
"Check"  on the water movement.
But,   "Everything is fine,  nothing to worry about "
Sure...............Tell me another joke!!!!<G>  There is -always-
something to worry about!<BG>
Yes,  that is really the worse spot in the tank,  as far as the hair
algae is concerned.
The water movement in this particular area is the highest   in the
tank.
Okay on the removal of the sponge filters.
I'll take off one tomorrow,  and the other one ,  next weekend.
This will mean no mechanical filters will be on the tank what so
ever.
As a matter of fact,   the only filters that will be on the tank at
all , will be the skimmer,  and any X-Products that we may be using ,
right?
                                     Jola
Jola,
Yes we probably will. That would be the only chemical filter we will use
for a while and then we will stop using even that one and see how the
reef does on its own.
Ideally Jola you should be able to run the tank off the skimmer, the sand
and the rock alone.
                                     Albert
Albert,
I cleaned out the area for the sand the other day with the Magnum.
I was ready for the sand ,  as far as being clean on the bottom of the
tank was concerned.
"Check"  on the X-Phosphate.
One question,   on the rinsing procedure,   you say to rinse with hot
water that does not contain chlorine.
Well, tap water contains chlorine,  so how do you remedy this?
Personally,  I do prefer a more sloping appearance to the rocks.   55
gallon tanks are just really narrow,  so you have a pretty much limited
amount of space to work with on things such as this.
The last full set of tests that were run on the tank ,  were performed
May 21st at 7 am.
At that time,  the Ca was 421,   is that still to low?
Also,  at that time,   the P04 was,  0.05.   is that still to high?
                                     Jola
Jola,
Yes both those numbers are off. One is a little low and the other one a
little too high.
The problem with the second one is that your test does not give you
lower results so it is hard to gauge how low PO4 really is.
Ideally it should be less than 0.03 ppm.
Your test will not show such low levels though.
A Hach test would solve that as it allows for the lower readings.
Yes I tend to agree with you but in a 55, when you need to leave space
for live sand, and you want to put in the amount of rock needed, there
seems to little else you can do than use the steep rock set up.
Yes that is right, these type of aquariums are operated without
mechanical filtration and with the use of a strong skimmer.
The X-Products are used on an if needed only basis. Out of all the X
ones the order of importance is X-PO4, X-Silicate, X-Nitrate.
Hot water having remained in the heater for a while usually does no
longer contain chlorine.
Everything "is" fine even if you have a hard time believing it. The
tests you are running and their results + the look of the tank are proof
positive that everything IS OK.
Yes you can worry and worry or you can just look at the end result, see
for yourself that all is all right and give up the worrying.
Testing the water quality parameters is the key to peace of mind. As
long as they are all in line you really have nothing to worry about.
When one or more get off, then they need to be corrected to bring them
back where they should be.
I guess that what I am trying to say is that testing IS important.
As time goes on and as more corals are added, you can always shift rocks
around to accommodate the new animals and give the aquarium the look you
like best.
Yes I have to agree with you totally. Even by electronic means,
following directions as outlined in the Jo-Bert files in the library
here, one ends up with the "real thing"
Amazing one would think. Not really though. Think about it for a minute.
By electronic mail you have all the information you need and all that
needs to be done is follow those instructions.
I am glad to hear you are happy with the results.
Could you post the results of the tests we performed twelve hours after
introducing the sand and the corals we added.
                                          Albert
Albert,
Here are all the test results that were taken 12 hours after the
addition of 50 lbs. of Live Sand and all the animals that we added.
May 27th,  at 9:30am;
Temp.-  Exactly 80 degrees, Ammo-  0, pH-   8.17, Nitrate-  .09
ORP-  371, Ca- 533, SG- <1.025, KH- 13 degrees, Nitrite-  Bare Trace                                         PO4- <0.1
IMO the nitrates were on about .09ppm 12 hours after the addition of
the sand,  I just tested again,  and they were still on the .09ppm.
Also, the ORP at 9 am is on 374,  which is the highest that it has
ever been , anytime.
                                                  Jola
Jola,
Nitrates will slowly go down but it is a bit soon. We only just added
the live sand so you will need a little patience.
The good part is that they did not go up all that much.
You can keep monitoring it every 3 or so days and then post the results
for all others to see.
When the live sand really kicks in they will drop fast.
Could you give a short description of the method used to add the sand.  It
may help everyone if you explain what the sand looks like also.
                                               Albert
Albert,
The sand is really beautiful and natural looking!   Much different
than any sand I've seen in any store.  It has lots of pieces of shells
in it.  If you try to bury the shell pieces,  they just find their way back
up. They look fine,  but it has an appearance of sand/ shells.
The sand is really loaded with shell pieces,  so I don't think it will
do any good to remove the shell pieces,  more would just appear.
This sand does not look like what a beach looks like.
People might want to get one other person to help them when they start
dumping in the sand.
The bag is rather heavy.   One person can hold the bag over the tank
for you,  while you yourself direct where the sand is going from the open
end of the bag.  This goes pretty quick in this manner.
Of course ,  if you can't find any help on this,  you could use a
plastic cup to just scoop the sand out of the bag,  then lower the cup
down into the tank and put it where it needs to be.   But this is a lot
more time consuming than dumping it out of the bag.
                                                 Jola
Jola,
I am glad you like the way the sand looks. This is "real" live sand.
This is the way it is supposed to look.
No do not remove the shells.
If they keep coming back to the surface then just leave them there. The
crabs and snails are partially responsible for bringing them back up BTW
as they dig and then push them up.
Yes, that makes a lot of sense. Two people can do it a lot easier than
just one.
Also doing it in that manner puts less sand fine particulate in the
water and it does cloud up as much.
The scooping it out ideas is a good one too. I like that for people who
do have to add it by themselves.
Glad it turned out the way it did. RE sent us some real nice stuff
indeed.
Since you already had rock in the tank I opted for the hybrid live sand
and Berlin method.
Hence the sand bar in the front.
If we had gone totally Jaubert we would have had to take the tank apart
and get all the rock out and then lay the grids etc. ...
This seemed like a good intermediate way to go and one many hobbyists
can easily implement.
All they have to do is move some rock back or up so they have a few
inches in the front to put the sand.
You may want to describe our experience with the large Sea Cucumber when
you get a chance.
                                        Albert
Albert,
Well,  it was kind of comical,  actually!
We just kept on putting it back on the sand,  in just a few minutes,
he would crawl off the sand!
Obviously,  this cucumber does -not - want to live in or on the sand!
I found it after about 24 or so hours of not seeing it.
He is right now ,  laying across a rock that is inside of the rocks.
I don't think that it will do any good to put him back on the sand.
                                       Jola
Jola,
Strange Sea Cucumber indeed. I will have to talk to Kathy at RE and find
out what the deal is as it is supposed to be in the sand and not on the
rocks.
So far the only place we HAVE seen it is on rocks. Strange indeed. I
will fill you in after I speak to Kathy.
No you are right. Putting the cucumber back on or in the sand does not
seem to help as it keeps crawling out and over the acrylic ledge anyway.
Let's see what Kathy has to say.
Is the cucumber stretched or is it short and retracted on itself?
                                       Albert
Albert,
Well,  the cucumber has just crawled all around the rocks today.
Really all over the place,  except for the sand.
When it stretches out it is more than a foot long!
The bubble is doing -much- better after the lights have been on for
awhile.
It does seem like a coral that doesn't like a lot of current though.
The Bubble is doing much better now.   Although,  the Bubble prefers
to be pointed up towards the light,  it would look much better to the eye
to angle it towards the front a little bit.
                                      Jola
Jola,
Bubble corals like current but not inordinate amounts of them. If the
bubbles are moving slightly now then it has enough current.
Is the Bubble Coral still in the same place?  
How are the Jubilee Snails doing? 
How are the herbivorous snails cleaning up the tank?
How are the small snails doing. They may have buried themselves in the
sand ?
                                    Albert
Albert, 
Yes, the Bubble Coral is still in the same place.
The Jubilee Snails are doing just fine.   Seems that they like the
glass a little better than the rocks or sand.
The herbivorous snails are all real busy eating algae on the glass 
and rocks.  Maybe it will get to the point that I won't have to use
the algae magnet on the glass.  What do you think?
Well, the snails that do come out, and that I can see are doing
just fine.
I have several that crawl up the glass, on occasion, so at least
these, I know are still okay.
                                        Jola
Jola,
Yes indeed, that is the whole idea of putting the snails and the little
hermits in.
They clean the tank up and you will no longer need the magnet and you
will probably not need X-products either, except maybe once in a while
on an intermittent basis.
Glad they are doing what they are supposed to do.
We have several kinds of snails in the tank. Some are probably dug into
the sand (the real small ones). The Jubilee snails will tend to stay on
the glass.
The other snails will be on the rocks.
                                          Albert
Albert,
All the crabs that I can see are doing just really great.   Of course,
they go all over the place in and among the rocks,  so you can't see all
of them,  all the time.
When I see some of them,  they are just real busy eating stuff off of
the rocks.   They are always so busy!
The Texas Longhorn Crab is doing really great!!!   I really like this
crab -a lot-!
He looks really neat,  and he stays on the sand,  and he just eats
and eats!!!
Everybody should get one of these crabs!
                                            Jola
Jola,
Seems like the crabs are doing exactly what they need to do. Eat algae!
Great.
That is what we want them to do.
Please give an update on the other Leather Corals in the tank. 
                                          Albert
Albert,
The Cabbage Coral,  I'm really not exactly sure how is supposed to
look.  I will look in some books at one and see how mine looks in
comparison.
It does look kind of "ruffly",  yet spread out on the rock that it is
on.
Much like there is 2 separate clumps of these brown colored ruffles.
                                           Jola
Jola,
If I remember correctly there are more than two. They should look the
way they did when we put them in just a little more open.
They should expand somewhat and the edges should remain curled.
When I saw it on Saturday it looked real good.
Is the Cabbage Coral still in the same place or has it been moved?
                                            Albert
Albert, 
No, the Cabbage Coral is still in the same place and is still looking like it 
did on Saturday.
The Devil's Hand ,  is still irritated looking.  Probably because it
fell to the sand.
I put it back into the rocks ,  sort of wedging it's base between 2
rocks so that it will stay put.
Will keep an eye on it and see if it comes back out.
                                           Jola
Jola, 
Yes, please do.  How did it fall?  Just by itself?  What damage, 
if any, do you see?
Where did you put it: high, medium, low?
I would put it towards the middle with moderate to strong current.
Have you tried putting the extra piece on the 2100 to redirect the
current yet?
                                        Albert
Albert,
It just got in a strong current.  It is okay, now.  I don't see any
damage at all to it.
Well,  I put the adjuster on the RIO and turned it down just a little
bit. Things do seem much happier now,  with the currents being toned down
just a little.
The Leather (Sargophyton) is very happy ,  and doing just fine.
                                        Jola
Jola, 
It is my understanding that Bobby moved some of the animals
around.  Can you update me on what has changed?
                                        Albert

Albert,
Well,  for the most part ,  he just moved around some rocks,  that
were put were they were for the benefit of breaking up some current made
by the power heads.
I put them back where they were to break the currents back up.
The Bubble Coral,  is the only one that I'm really concerned about
getting too much current.
I got it to where I can't feel any current with my hand,  but the
Bubble is really easy to show the current blowing on it.
I don't know what else I can do to lessen the current on it and still
keep it at the light level it now is.
Pagoda Cup Coral,  which to me looks like some sort
of Polyps in this weird looking cup, are doing just fine. 
They seem to rest when the lights go off.
Where does the cup that they are in come from?  Do these polyps make
this cup their selves?
We also added a very nice Green Open Brain.   It is doing good.  It
does seem to rest when the lights go off.
During rest,  I would say that it is about 5" in diameter ,  during
the day ,  it increases to about 6" in diameter.
                                         Jola
Jola,
What you have in the vase is Palythoa and they are real nice polyps.
Pity they are not more colorful. They do make a nice addition to the
tank though, especially where you placed them.
Yes they do close when the lights are out. That is normal.
Glad to hear the open brain Trachophylia is doing well. The size does
not increase that much in length but the thickness of the polyp does as
you may have noticed.  It is a real nice piece indeed.
The tests you are performing today would be about 3 days after the live 
sand and corals were added.
                                       Albert