Contents •1.0 Introduction •2.0 Wet/Dry Filters (W/D) •3.0 Protein Skimmers •4.0 Hoods •5.0 Stands •6.0 Conclusions and Appendices 4.0 Hoods Most beginning aquarists are content with using the everyday Perfecto hood or no hood at all. However, as interest grows and you want to keep live plants or invertebrates, the need for a high quality hood and lighting system is greatly accented. Hood designs boil down to personal preference in many cases and most all designs are functional for their needs. The requirements for a hood are that it can house the lighting of choice, withstand the environment (e.g., water, salt), it can be cooled if required, and be moved/opened on a regular basis. Also. the construction must be sturdybecause the hood will most likely be opened on a daily basis for tank maintenance. Because the design of a hood is so personal (different lighting systems, different requirements for space and size), a detailed design walk-through won't be given here. Rather, various designs will be given and one detailed design will be presented. The detailed design is of a fluorescent hood with a flip top. The design can be altered to include metal halide lamps and fan cooling if desired. Below is depicted various designs that I have seen and heard about from other aquarists. These are not the only designs and certainly should not be thought of as the only approach to a hood design. Click here to see Figure 4.0.0 - Popular Hood Designs Design A is the basic flip top model. It has a base unit and the lights are attached to the top which opens for maintenance. Model B is similar to A, except it is split in two vertically and half of the hood flips open. In this case, the front half may be opened and rested on the back half. This has great advantages over model A, which needs to be supported while it is open. Model C and D are variations on commercial hoods. Model C is simply a piece of glass with two strip lights resting on top. It is simple and cheap, but offers little aesthetic appeal and it makes it very difficult to do maintenance. Model D is an illustration of the basic plastic commercial hood. Model E is similar to A, except the front panel flips forward instead of the top. This has the distinct advantage that the lamps do not have to be moved for daily maintenance (Model D also has this advantage). Appendix B gives detailed drawings for Model A, as well as mounting tips for the fluorescent lights. The design is for a 30 gallon tank which measures 36" long and 12 1/2" wide. The only parameters that need to varied in the design is the length and width of the shape. The height will accommodate most any lighting choices. Up to 4 fluorescent lamps will fit nicely into the design. More could be packed in, but it would be a tight fit. 5.0 Stands Stands follow the same basic philosophy as hoods do: their designs are mostly personal preference. Regardless of the aesthetic appeal though, the stand must be capable of hold large amounts of weight, and therefore, must be very well build. Figure 5.0.0 shows some basic stand designs and a migration pattern. Model A is simple, basic and Spartan. Model B builds on A by adding a solid top and shelf. C adds doors and D is the complete enclosure. Various levels of ornateness can be had for the doors and moldings. Only your imagination limits you. ø Click here to see Figure 5.0.0 - Stand Designs The stand should be constructed of at least 2x4s. 2x4 side bars and 4x4 legs is good, but usually not needed for most applications. Also, screwing the wood together offers greater stability in the long run and allows the stand to be disassembled with little effort. The most critical element in the stand construction is that it is sturdy and this can not be stressed enough. However, the stand must be level as well. If the tank rests on an uneven surface, pressure points will build and a crack most likely will develop. Any solid top stand can be enhanced by placing cardboard or some moderately flexible material under the tank. This will allow the tank to `settle` into place once it is filled. If something is placed under the tank, it should be under the entire tank body not just one side or corner, thus reducing the stress on the tank. Model A is regularly offered in pet shops for $50 or more when in actually it costs about $10 to build. One final note on the construction, the wood should be dried. If the wood is damp during construction, it will dry and warp leading to uneven surfaces. Goto Next Section (Conclusions) Goto the Index Goto the Home Page